There are, of course, plenty of top-notch bars and eateries scattered throughout downtown Barcelona. But if you want to sample some of the best vermut that the city has to offer, while gorging yourself on plates of tapas, definitely pay a visit to Bodega La Palma.
Tucked away down one of the many charming narrow streets of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter, the small bar is positively steeped in nostalgia and old-world tradition.
La Palma dates back to 1935. It first opened as a grocery store, but five years later became a winery, as well as a meeting point for the intellectuals of the day.
Originally a family business, La Palma is now owned by Albert Rial and Judith Giménez, who have pledged to uphold the local tradition that has made the place so well-known.
La Palma has a rustic, cosy atmosphere. Vintage wine bottles line the shelves. Dim lighting sets a relaxed, intimate mood.
The place isn’t terribly big so it is definitely worth booking in advance – otherwise you may face a bit of a wait before you can be seated, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. La Palma has both an upstairs and downstairs. A new branch has just opened next door, as well, although this is much more brightly-lit and feels less rustic than the original bar.
Despite La Palma’s popularity (it is almost always busy, no matter what evening you turn up on), the staff are attentive and friendly. Menus are available in both English and Spanish.
While there is good selection of drink on offer (including beer, wine and spirits), a lot of people come here to sample the homemade vermut. This really is excellent: subtly-spiced and not over-bearing. A really great drink to have with the tapas.
Vermut – or vermouth, in English – is a fortified wine that originated in Southern Europe. It has a long history in Catalonia, and there are several established distilleries in the region. The drink is made by enthusing a base wine with a variety of herbs and spices. This means that each variety can be noticeably different!
The type of vermut served in La Palma is red vermouth, slightly sweet (but not too much) and very drinkable.
For food, there are many good dishes to try – although do avoid the pan con tomate (Spanish tomato bread). Many places in Barcelona serve excellent pan con tomate. This is not one of them.
Here are some suggestions of food that we recommend trying at La Palma:
Croquettes: The traditional ham croquettes are very good, but for something a little bit more special why not give the pea and mint croquettes a go? These may seem like odd ingredients to stuff into a croquette, but you won’t be disappointed!
Patatas bravas: La Palma does a very good version of the classic tapas dish: gently fried potatoes with a sumptuous spicy sauce.
Pork cheeks in cider: Say no more! Say no more! This is a main dish rather than tapas-style, but you can share it between a few people.
Cannelloni: The Catalan variety of cannelloni is very different to the Italian version, which has become some ubiquitous. It’s hard to explain exactly where the difference lies – just try them and see! Each restaurant will serve up a different recipe, and the one at La Palma is definitely worth trying.
Pimiento de padróns: Perfectly-seasoned Spanish green peppers.
Selection of manchego cheese and iberico ham: All very good!
